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Harvest Sauvignon Blanc from closed spaced single vineyard in Wrattonbully on 22 February - very early
Domaine Marcel Deiss
Domaine Marcel Deiss is located in Bergheim in the heart of the Alsatian wine region. It is currently run by Jean-Michel Deiss, whose family has been making wine since 1744. The domaine has 26 hectares of hillside vineyards spread over 9 communes and 20 kilometres. The Domaine's website, http://www.marceldeiss.com, contains detailed information on all the terroirs Deiss has unearthed in Alsace.
- Bergheim, Alsace - France
- Bergheim, Alsace - France
Jean-Michel Deiss
Jean-Michel, a medieval history buff, is a passionate and somewhat controversial preacher of the Alsatian tradition of “complantation”, or field blending varieties in the vineyard. He believes that a true expression of a site’s terroir is only possible through a field blending of the traditional Alsatian varieties in proportions suited to a particular site. Not one to accept the status quo, Jean-Michel works tirelessly to spread his message. Indeed just recently he managed to convince the INAO to change regulations allowing a blend to have Grand Cru status from the Grand Cru of Altenberg de Bergheim, where previously the wine had to be labelled as Riesling.
Viticulture
He is a fervent follower of biodynamic practices and believes that vines have to suffer in order to produce their best, using very dense plantations to achieve this. All of the wines from the domaine are produced from within the Ribeauvillé fault area. This oval shaped area runs for about 15 kilometres between Rorschwihr and Kientzheim and is at its widest point at Bergheim where it measures 2 kilometres across. The Bergheim valley is unique in Alsace: a hill blocks the cold air flowing down from the Vosges which makes this valley warmer than the other Grand Cru valleys in the area. The terroirs are a patchwork quilt created by the various North-South and East-West faults. As such, Jean-Michel treats each parcel of vines separately starting from decisions on viticultural techniques to the actual vinification – a very long, careful and laborious process.
Winemaking
Jean-Michel tends to pick late, even if that might allow some infection by noble rot. Once the grapes arrive in the winery they are very slowly pressed and allowed to naturally undergo fermentation under cool conditions. This process can take quite some time and it is not uncommon for his wines to retain some residual sugar. However, as for the onset of noble rot, Jean-Michel believes that this only serves to enhance the expression of terroir in his wines and give them a greater ability to age.
Classification of Deiss wines
In Jean-Michel’s opinion there are three broad categories of wine:
- Vins de Fruits
- Varietally labelled wines from a single designated commune or village.
- Vins de Terroirs
- Field blends of varietals dominated by their terroir, site and soil specificity which include what he calls his Premiers Crus and the AOC recognised Grand Crus.
- Vins de Temps
- Classic late harvest wines with the Vendange Tardive and Sélection de Grains Nobles designations.
Wines available from Domaine Marcel Deiss
Alsace
2010
Vineyard blend from many Alsatian varieties. Very crisp, great acidity and flavours of pears and citrus.
Pinot d'Alsace
2010
This wine is a blend of all the Pinot (Blanc, Noir, Meunier, Auxerrois, Gris, etc…) from different vineyard. Mainly Pinot Blanc, it has a very good texture, and the blend of all Pinot brings a lot of different flavours. Great finish, off dry, well balanced by a very crisp acidity.
Riesling
2009
Riesling from the 2009 vintage, classic Deiss Riesling, very linear lime-zesty palate and intense lingering flavours. Finishes off-dry.
Pinot Gris de Bergheim
2007
This 100% Pinot Gris contains mainly the Pinot Beurot clone, a grape that carries more acidity than the widely planted Alsace Pinot Gris. There is some Botrytis, and apricot, orange peel flavours abound.
Single Vineyard Engelgarten Premier Cru
2008
This Single vineyard is mostly Riesling with a hint of Pinot Blanc. This is a very good introduction of Deiss’ philosophy of filed blending varieties in unique single vineyards. Amazingly complex, honeyed nose, juicy lychees and stone fruit on the palate, great length finishing on bitter sweet citrus peel.
Gewurztraminer de Bergheim
2005
This is probably one of the most elegant and rich Gewurztraminers from Alsace. The fruit comes from various vineyards with mainly calcareous terroirs. The result is rich and luscious, with citrus, floral aromas and a great acidity. Still too young to drink.
Single Vineyard Grasberg Premier Cru
2003
This single vineyard is planted mainly with Riesling (with some Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer). It is on the same hill as the Burg vineyard, but it is at the top of the hill, faces north and has very poor limestone soils. The wine is very complex.
Single Vineyard Burg Premier Cru
2003
This single vineyard is a field blend of all 13 authorised Alsatian varieties. The Burg vineyard is relatively low in altitude, south facing and with rich soils (Keuper marls).
Altenberg de Bergheim Grand Cru
2004
This is where the complantation story started, where a blend of all Alsatian varieties are planted in the same vineyard, and then picked and vinified together. This is a very complex wine, almost a vendanges tardives.
Schoenenbourg Grand Cru
2004
This vineyard is almost 100% Riesling (it is one of the oldest Riesling vineyards in Alsace ‚ around 50 years-old, and is situated above Riquewihr, next to an old Sulphur mine). This is one of the best Alsace Rieslings available, in the richer style.
Mambourg Grand Cru
2003
A field blend of all the Pinot varieties in the Mambourg Grand Cru, the wine is made in the manner of a Burgundy white (i.e. in barrel), generally with no residual sugar.