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Harvest Sauvignon Blanc from closed spaced single vineyard in Wrattonbully on 22 February - very early
Château Pierre-Bise
Claude and Joelle Papin-Chevalier started Chateau Pierre Bise thirty years ago. Claude Papin (a former President of the Technical Institute of the Vine and of Wine) and his wife are the most polemic defenders of the Anjou terroir, being perhaps unsurprisingly very good friends with Marcel Deiss from Alsace. They control over 32 hectares of vines, producing a vast array of single parcel whites, reds and sweet wines. However, it is his sweet wines for which he is most famous, and in particular those from the Côteaux du Layon.
- Anjou, Loire Valley - France
- Anjou, Loire Valley - France
Philosophy
At the core of the Papin philosophy for sweet wines lies three concepts: terroir, polyphenols and botrytis. It is his belief that a wine will only truly become a “vin de terroir” rather than a “vin de cepage” through the interplay of these three aspects; ie. in order for a wine to be able to express its terroir, it must be allowed to retain its polyphenols, which requires a rapid rate of infection by botrytis, thus, in his opinion, avoiding the cleavage of the polyphenol molecules.
Methodology
The South-West orientation of the vines in the Coteaux du Layon, combined with the natural morning mists that come off the Layon leads to a natural onset of botrytis. Papin harvests continually over two months, taking only the grapes that are at their peak of botrytisation on each of several passes that he makes for each row of vines. He then naturally ferments as slowly as possible, without the addition of sugar, in order to keep as much purity of expression as he can. This gives wines that have a great balance of sweetness and acidity without any of the bad Chenin odours that can be seen in other less carefully cared for wines.
In late 2011 Papin's ongoing efforts to see greater recognition of the sweet wines of Anjou were rewarded, with the approval of Grand Cru status for Quarts de Chaume (making it the first Grand Cru in the Loire) and Premier Cru status for Coteaux du Layon.
As Andrew Jefford in “The New France” says of the Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu Rouannières:
Grown on volcanic spilite which seems to add delicious marzipan dimensions, and provide both unctuous glycerol and ample ripe acidity.
Wines available from Château Pierre-Bise
Cabernet d'Anjou
2010
The must was pressed off skins with almost no maceration. The resulting wine is very fresh & fruity, even more than previous vintages, with similar residual sugar (63g/L).
Anjou Village - Sur Schistes
2009
75% Cabernet Franc and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon. For the first time, the wine was fermented 100% in horizontal enclosed stainless steel fermenters (the must is fermented without pumping over to avoid too much tannin extraction) - this is the old method of fermenting red wines. The wine was then aged in tanks (no barriques used). The Schistes is very mineral with amazing tannins (no astringency).
Anjou Village - Sur Spilites
2009
50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 50% Cabernet Franc. The same fermentation vessels as for the Schistes were used (horizontal stainless steel). It was aged in 2-year old oak barriques. The Spilite is very fruity with good tannins, no astringency.
Savennières - Roche aux Moines
2009
100% Chenin Blanc. The terroir is very complex, with two different volcanic rocks (Riolite and Spilite) and silica/sandstone soils bringing power and acidity. This wine is fermented in 400L barrels (5 to 10-year old oak). It is one of the best examples of the terroir, very mineral and tense, no residual sugar. It needs decanting.
Coteaux du Layon - Les Rouannières
2009
100% Chenin Blanc. 50% of the fruit was harvested in October when the fruit had shrivelled but without Botrytis infection ("passerillage"). The remaining 50% was harvested end of November, after 2-3 weeks of rain, and had been infected by Botrytis. The Rouannières is made in 50% stainless steel tank and 50% old oak barrels. The wine is very elegant with a great acidity, with spicy aromas, ginger and saffron and great length. 180g/L of residual sugar.
Quart de Chaume
2009
100% Chenin Blanc. Made in 100% old oak from 50% passerillage and 50% Botrytis fruit. The 2009 is very elegant with amazing quince flavours, and not overpowering.
