The Arrivo Adelaide Hills vineyard is providing some of Australia’s leading nebbiolos. This ’08 opens with blackcurrant pastille, tar, Vietnamese mint and savoury Italianate scents that evolve more complexity with air. The palate is moreish, dry and deeply flavoured, with a great wall of tannins underneath.

Ageing? Yes, two to 12 years plus.

Food ideas: Rump steak, oxtail braised in nebbiolo.

Stockists include: Blackhearts & Sparrows, Windsor, Fitzroy and Brunswich; City Wine Shop, Spring Street.

4 stars, $$