Andrew Graham of has taken a look at the new Chanson Viré-Clessé 2010, and he liked what he saw!

Chanson have always had a reputation for value wines, particularly since Bollinger took over in 1999, but this may be one of the best yet. They’re still a way off the high notes with the top wines (though a 2010 Chassagne Montrachet ‘Les Chenevottes’ 1er tasted alongside this wine certainly argues against that) but no arguing with the QPR.

This particular wine is sourced from the SE facing slope between the villages of Viré and Clessé in the middle of the Mâconnais. Unsurprisingly, it looks rather Pouilly Fuisse-esque in style too, cast with the milk/whipped butter richness and briny, waxy lemon citrus Mâcon fruit. It’s perhaps a simple wine, the mid palate just a little ill defined, yet the finish is taut, the line is attractive and the acidity quite correct (helped along by the restraint of the vintage).

Village level quality, but with a Bourgogne pricetag, it’s hard not to like this wine. I do. 17/90

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