Some recent press on a few of the Nebbiolos in our portfolio. The first couple from Gourmet Traveller WINE’s large tasting in the April / May issue, the second from Philip White in InDaily.

2008 Arrivo Nebbiolo, Adelaide Hills gained strong support from Bennie. “Scented, spicy and mellow red fruit,” he began. “Retains primary fruit well. Supple and satisfying with a lip-smack of dusty tannin. Drink now!” I found it distinctly firm, but liked its complex cola and dried herb flavours and differed from Bennie in thinking it would soften and gain fragrance in bottle.

2011 Ceretto Bernadina Nebbiolo d’Alba shows a savoury fragrance with hints of red vermouth. Complex flavours follow with very firm but even tannins. Hooke found “dry grass and straw. A firm, hard palate with sharp tannin and alcohol warmth – a good grip.” There’s serious potential here and it needs time. The first bottle opened showed cork taint, but the second fine, as above.

Gourmet Traveller WINE, April / May 2014

Bernadina Ceretto Nebbiolo D’Alba 2011

Nebbiolo from Alba is considered by wine trade people with haircuts to be what they call “entry-level” nursery wine for those newcomers with dangerous Barolo aspirations; ie drinking above their station. This nasty dark thing has not quite the finesse of the finer Barolos, but it’s a damn fine borderline posh drink, especially when stood against a savage brute like that Nero D’Avola. When the man comes with the leather gloves and the shotgun to punish me for daring to make the comparison he’ll be from Alba, not Sicily, if you get my drift. Apart from having darker, more licorice fruit than the more Pinot-like raspberry I like in Barolo, this one’s got a pretty hint of meadow flowers and musk, and tannins that seem a little more conventional. I love the way really good Nebbiolo carries its tannin like a cloud hovering above the wine; it’s the opposite of, say, Shiraz, where the tannin is in the gearbox and the chassis and it occupies all the territory in the bottom of your mouth. Well, this Bernadina has tannins that are about halfway between those extremes, which reinforces my allegations of convention. But don’t be put off. This is a wine for apprentice Sopranos and serious beef.

Philip White, InDaily 10 April 2014